Friday, January 22, 2010

Zaitinya

I have been to Zaitinya quite a few times since it opened its doors about 5 years ago. Its bar is always crowded and full and you'd be hard pressed to find a seat at the bar when arriving on the later side. It is located just adjacent from the MLK library and very Metro accessible (just across the street from Gallery Place Metro that serves Yellow, Green and Red Metro lines).
From the outside, the design fits the building it resides; modern with mostly large glass windows from ceiling to bottom
Inside, all white walls, polished dark terrazzo floors that mimics a greek mediterranean architecture and design. Upon entering on the far side, a cozy fireplace resides just in front of the open kitchen. A huge bar area sits slightly to the right just a couple of steps up from the main dining room. In the center of the dining area long communal tables that seat app. 30 guests is in plain view under large ceiling sconces and lighting. Stairs to the upstairs dining area is located towards the back. The overall feel is a Modern mediterranean design with clean lines, and very cozy.
Chef Jose Andres who started Cafe Atlantico and its Mini Bar, Jaleo and its Spanish Tapas, last but not least Oyamel a mexican style tapas called antojitos. Andres prepares his dishes simply and perfectly; using proper spices, seasonings and accompaniments specific to the region he's trying to recreate. A puffy flat bread is served multiple times during the course of the meal.
The wine selections are mainly mediterranean: mostly Greek that includes Aegean Isle, Pelloponessos, Makedonia (Macedonia), a few Lebanese and a Turkish wine.
The food is Mezze, which is a Mediterranean style small plate similar to Tapas and Antojitos.
Most of the preparations revolve around earthy concoctions such as olives, capers, tahini, tabbouleh, etc.....almost Middle Eastern but not quite there, definitely mediterranean.
Again, here almost if not all of the preparations are very simple, not one flavor overpowers the other.On one of my earlier visits, the menu offered a single serving of deep fried red snapper that was simply seasoned with salt and pepper, lemon juice and a hint of capers.....tasted like summer. Last week for restaurant week I did not opt for the prix fixe and got their baby beets salad and their smoked foie gras. The beet salad was typical but very good.....tossed in a very light citrus dressing, feta and candied walnuts. The Foie Gras was excellently prepared, a hint of applewood smoke and served with crusty pita chips. The Foie gras was offered as a special, so it's not showing on their website, but it was a welcome surprise.
I will review more of their offerings so stay tuned......

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Mie n Yu

For restaurant week, a good friend of mine reserved spots at a couple of restaurants to try. One of them was Mie n Yu in Georgetown. If I am not mistaken, this was formerly the spot where Hamburger Hamlet used to occupy during it's heydays in the 70s-80s before another failed restaurant, which name escapes me, before the Owners of Mie n Yu opened its doors in February 2003. I recall getting a few drinks at Mie n Yu at the bar and mostly ordering small plates rather than main course selections. The first thing i noticed with the decor was crowded and dark. It has it's thematic booths and rooms, which i think, adds to the experience of the visit. I don't know if I can describe it as having a "Tiki" feel, with drapes from the ceiling for soft touches.
Back then, they were serving Asian "Fusion" cuisine. Tim Miller joined Mie n Yu in August 2004 and recently transformed the menu as "Authentic Silk Road" cuisine. Upon glancing briefly, the menu is well conceived with "almost" exotic spices and description of its ingredients; they also sound very good from a marketing stand point.
So, biggest pet peeve I have with a menu such as this......brown!
It is my description of Art when too many colors are used to compose it; I believe in simplicity in any type of preparations. From simplicity comes flavors that are distinguishable; thyme taste like thyme, cumin compliments spicy flavors, oregano gives an earthy aroma yet sweet and pungent, and so forth.
With painting, when too many colors are used to compose, the result is mostly grey or Brown.
Similarly with food.
With that said; I see too many of these things......before even tasting it, I can already assume and most of the dishes will taste spicy (not hot, but indiscernable flavors).
Items such as Korean Bulgogi, Indonesian Scallop kare (curry), Chicken Rica Rica are on the menu as part of the main course selection.
Authentic Silk Road cuisine barely come to mind when one sees Indonesian and/or korean dishes on the menu. Indonesians rarely serve Scallops by itself (I am indonesian) and as far as I can recall Rica Rica is a term used in the east Indonesian island of Sulawesi (Celebes not Singapore) for hot and spicy. I also ponder using the term authentic Silk Road cuisine when the silk road stretched between Greece and China; Indonesia? Korea?
Aside from being Geographically challenged, I think the food preparation itself is at best mediocre. I opted for the Prix Fixe; starting with the Dumplings, followed by the Afghan Lamb and topped off by the Mandarin Mai Lo Go.
The dumplings are stuffed with ground beef mixed with (possibly) ginger, garlic and cilantro that tasted decent, but nothing to write home about....authentic.....not quite. The Afghan Lamb Kabobs were pretty nicely prepared but lack the bite and spiciness that lamb kabobs are meant to taste, or Am I confusing it to Tandoori? For dessert the "Mai Lo Go" was a mish mash of lychee and mandarin orange cake, more like cinnamon pudding in a creme anglaise bath with candied pecans tossed around it. A very nice and interesting concept on paper, but putting together citrus, with cinnamon in a rich creme anglaise sauce with lychee? Pretty poorly conceived in terms of flavor mixture and texture. There's plenty of such examples on Mie n Yu's menu that looks VERY good on paper, and I don't think that they are poorly executed.
I have yet to try their bar selections; as they've been dubbed as one of the world's destination bar.......whatever that means.
Overall, I think Mie n Yu presents a refreshing idea to an already watered down food selection in DC. I guess I'm partial to less innovation and more on perfection when it comes to food preparation. As I've prefaced so many times in my food blogs, simplicity is so key; perfecting the basics will eventually bring innovations.

Friday, January 15, 2010

Bistro Bis

This is one of my all time favorites in DC; a typical and perfect French cuisine prepared properly and perfectly. It's a combination of Bistro food and a slightly fancier Haute Cuisine offerings. Bistro Bis is part of The Hotel George just a block from DC's Union Station. Upon entering the clean lines of its modern design and decor is striking, yet warm, not like your typical minimalist's interior design. Warm light colored wood bar differentiates it from a supper club/steak house feel.
I haven't visited in a few months, but the last time I visited they still had Duck confit on the menu and Braised Beef Short Ribs. I think they change the menu seasonally, which is a great thing.
Jeff Buben is a very talented chef and executes his dishes almost perfectly, if not so.
The one thing that stood out when ordering the Braised Short Ribs, is the baby carrot accompaniment; it is made with lardons (french cured bacon), garlic and thyme. The sweet flavors of the carrots, the earthy taste from the thyme and the salt from the Lardons makes an awesome vegetable accompaniment. What I like best of Bistro Bis is the portions that are served, proper amounts and not overwhelming; still much more than what a typical portion is in Europe but less than a typical American fare.
The Duck confit is served with white beans, tomato concasse, thyme jus and a homemade toulouse sausage. A simple and proper pairing of protein, vegetable and very little starch (if any).
I also love the duck liver parfait......a mousse similarly to the Foie Gras, but less velvety and creamy. Still has that livery, almost tart flavor, but smooth and excellently prepared.
They're wine selection is excellent as well; one of my first encounters and learning about Oregon Pinot Noirs (Willamette Valley); Torii Mor 2003 and Four Graces 2005.....excellent vintages bold enough for their French dishes. Although the La Becasse 1998 bordeaux can't be overlooked.
I will update this review as I visit again in the near future.


Bistro Bis
15 E Street, NW
Washington DC 20001
(202)661-2700

Pricing: $50-75/pp, starter, meal and a glass of wine/beer. Tips and tax not included.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Matchbox Capitol Hill

Okay, so this is the umpteenth time I've been to Matchbox.......it's consistently good, close to my domicile, across from my other favorite spot, Belga Cafe, and.....as usual, I know the bartenders and a couple of the managers.
The restaurant is very well designed, for those of you who remembered Marty's, Matchbox took over this place, added a mezzanine floor to add more seating space.
A very attractive and large bar against an open brick wall resides to the right upon entering.
3 large flat screen TVs adorn the tops of the bar and if you look up there's a large sunroof. Just beyond the bar, the brick-oven and pizza preparation area is visible. The dining room is to the left with mostly booth seating and table seating closer to the front. The mezzanine seating upstairs are also booth and tables. It is well designed, modern yet cozy.
There are outside seating available as well.
Matchbox started out in Chinatown and very well known for their brick oven pizza's. They produce their own pizza dough and produce great thin crust pizza.
I am not a pizza person, but I won't refuse 2 Amy's Pizza, Pizzeria Paradiso and Matchbox's.
There are other signature items they're known for:
3 6 9 burgers; essentially mini burgers/sliders to share, served with crispy seasoned fried onions.
Mini Trio; 2 seared scallops, 2 mini crabcakes and 2 mini burgers without the buns.....properly and very well prepared.
They do have great salad selections as well:
Pear and apple salad; toasted thinly sliced pear on top of baby greens, slices of granny smith apples, candied nuts and feta cheese.
Roasted beet salad or the crispy calamari salad......the latter I would've preferred grilled calamari instead of fried rings, but still a formidable salad, as an entree or to share.
The Main course items seem an afterthought since most diners come for the pizza or the burger. Oh, I forgot to mention the Bistro Burger......... matchbox probably pioneered serving burgers with a brioche bun, but I could be wrong. It is probably the best burger I've had.......anywhere. I'm not one of those people who would seek a burger, but this is good burger.
The beef patty is homemade, not some pre-formed ground beef, and I'm pretty sure they use quality ground beef. Topped with sauteed mushrooms, blue cheese on a brioche bun.......Belgian style fries or onion rings......this is an awesome burger.
Like I said the main course selections seem to be an afterthought, but they are quite good.
I've had the New York Strip steak, nothing spectacular, but very well prepared, grilled and properly seasoned.
The braised beef short rib, however, is excellent.......coming off the bone type preparation and braised in....my guess is.....red wine, garlic, thyme, onions and perhaps carrots, since I can taste some sweetness to it. Served on a bed of mashed potatoes and a very tasty sauteed chopped brussels sprouts and bacon.......perfect blend. It is also perfectly portioned, not too big, not to small, just right.
Next visit, I will try their cast iron chicken.
They also have a great imported beer selection, a decent wine list AND reasonably priced. A couple of great premium irish Whiskeys such as Tyrconell, Redbreast; Premium Nicaraguan rum Ron Zacapa and other premium liquor. Matchbox hit the perfect formula for the capitol hill neighborhood and doing very well.
I'm going back soon!



Matchbox Capitol Hill
521 8th St, SE,
Washington, DC 20003

202.548.0369 phone
202.548.0187 fax

Hours:
Monday thru Thursday
11 AM - 10:30 PM

Friday:
11 AM - 11:30 PM

Saturday:
Open 10 AM, brunch until 3 PM
Last seating at 11:30 PM

Sunday:
Open 10 AM, brunch until 3 PM
Last seating at 10:30 PM

Pricing: $35-50/pp, starter and meal with a glass of wine or beer. Tax and tips not included